My wife and I met in Maui and lived there together for 7 years. Body surfing was fun and always imbued me with immense respect for the power of nature. I remember watching a freshly arrived tourist wade into a high surf and break his collar bone when a big wave hit.
I thought about surfing during a recent visit with the modern mystic Andrew Harvey. He came here to Ashland for a week to present on RUMI, the 13th century Persian poet who is now one of the most popular authors in the world.
RUMI, and Andrew, focus on connection with the Divine. "God" has become a loaded word in our culture and I tend to prefer "love."
When we put love, or God, first, and learn how to surf this wave... making it the first wave in our lives, everything begins to change. We enter a devotional space. We feel connected to life. We find that what used to trouble us shrinks... we now have perspective.
A daily practice is essential. I recommend meditation and chanting. Whatever you choose, devotion (without the dogma) is a great ride!